Justin McCarthy's Page

Justin,

The boat you see in the shop was Aus, 1988 Soeul Korea games boat.

Needed tons of love to get to this point. Is still fast for Fleet Racing to NA's I believe, since Dave Watt, and I believe Carl Buchan, still use this era of boat.

This hull was constructed of a softer core material, meaning it dents easily, does not seem to want to de lam as much.The boat was pretty beat up, years of abuse were all over the hull.

I had rebuilt I14's before, so the plan was pretty much the same. Identify what needed to be done, make a plan.

This case was the hull finish had to be decent for racing. This entailed removing some of old repairs, (not completed well) re finishing repairs, prior to paint work.Any new repairs were included at this time.

Repairs were done with epoxy, glass, gelcoat and or epoxy filler, to meet class spec for construction. Carbon is not allowed.

After the hull topsides were repaired, I sanded this hull to remove a small amount of the surface as to be aware of increasing overall weight, after the paint was applied.

I did weight the boat prior to all this to keep any eye on weight gains if any. Good hint here is to read in the Star Class Site,  a note from Bill Buchan on rebuilding an older boat.

After this hull was wet sanded fair with 320, I used a awlgrip epoxy primer, urethane top coat for the top sides. Given a week or two of curing, I then wet sanded the new paint with 2000 grit, lightly, then polished the hull with polishing compound.

I would not use urthane below the waterline, or under bunks or keel bed areas. I made the mistake of using awlgrip on the keel. It blistered where the keel box does not drain well.

I will be repainting the keel with an International Epoxy white bottom paint, burnishes, after curing to refinish the keel or below waterline. This product is rated for water imersion.

Are you keeping the boat in Seattle ? will we see you on the water this year ?

Rob